I meet Wolfgang down in the kitchen, and much to my surprise he has breakfast ready and waiting. Fresh bread with local butter and homemade logan berry/raspberry jam complete with coffee. After breakfast he breaks out a very well used map, that is just hanging on to dear life with a massive amount of scotch tape holding the seams together. He lays out this map and we go over the route that we are going to take, it looks like an intermediate hike and not too terribly difficult. After taking a look at the weather, Wolfgang disappears to his basement and returns with a pack and waterproof gear for me. He tells me that I may not need them, but it will be better if I take the equipment. He explains to me that the weather on the Austrian side of the alps can be the exact opposite of the weather in Fussen. I thank him for the clothing and we head out for our hike.
The destination is the Musauer (sounds like: moose-hour) Alm. An alm is a summer home for the local cheese makers while their cows graze the grassy mountains sides and is also kind of like a Bed and Breakfast in the Alps. Many hikers make use of the alms instead of relying and a tent.
The hike to the alm is a bit damp with very Seattle like rain. Not hard and heavy, but just a constant drizzle that eventually gets you soaking wet. It was a good thing that Wolfgang had provided me with some waterproof clothing. His insight also allowed us to make the decision to do some more hiking...so out cam the map. We plotted a course that would take us up through the saddle between mountain peaks, and on the other side we would stop at another alm. After we ate our lunch and drank a beer, we headed back out into the drizzle. The hike was a little steep, but nothing terrible. Wolfgang set a very nice slow pace that kept plenty of energy in the legs...and we would need it.
Once we broke through the tree line, the saddle was clearly visible in front of us, what appeared to be a nearly vertical climb. Wolfgang just looked at my awestruck face and smiled. Hiking up a very steep mountainside is one thing when it is dry, it is a completely different thing when the ground is completely saturated with water and littered with holes from the hoofs of cattle. The most challenging aspect was not the steepness, but trying to find a place for your foot that was not 2 feet deep and full of water.
After what felt like 4 hours, we finally reached the crest of the saddle. I had lagged behind Wolfgang, and when I finally caught up with him he had some delicious chocolate ready for me. Brilliant man, he knew that we would need a boost in energy for the trip down the opposite side of the saddle.
It only took a few steps before I lost my footing. I slipped and fell straight on my ass, and immediately erupted into laughter. I knew that this was going to be quite the adventure getting down. The grass was slippery, the wind at my back, and littered with the same hoof holes as the ascent. After 2 more slips and falls, we had finally made it to a decent pathway again, and the next alm was not far.
The alm was very warm and all about was strewn wet hiking gear; boots, socks, jackets, and packs. We had a seat and order some food and coffee. We had both packed an additional pair of socks, just in case our feet got wet. Both of us have waterproof boots, and for the most part, mine did a wonderful job of keeping the water out of my boots. There is no hiking boot that will keep your feet completely dry when you step in hoof holes that reach your calves. We placed our boots upside down on the ceramic casting of the fireplace, hung our jackets and wet socks, and enjoyed our food, a version of dutch babies with raspberry jam and applesauce, and coffee.
After an hour or so, our boots had dried out quite nicely, still a bit damp, but not soaking, so we geared up, paid our tab, and headed off into the wild once more. From here on out the hike was pretty easy. There were some steep areas, and some rather muddy holes to get through, but all-in-all, it was very nice and enjoyable. Even the drizzle disappeared.
This was an incredible day. I do not know that I could have asked for anything better than a day hiking in the Alps of Austria with someone that knows them intimately. This day may very well be the hallmark of my adventure.
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